Nadine Nettmann’s L.A.

I was particularly excited for this L.A. adventure. One, because I knew we were going to a few classic places in Los Angeles that I have never been to and two, because I get to hang out with Nadine. Nadine is in my “writer friends” group. There are a handful of us who first met at various writing events and now meet every few months for dinner. I love these nights. Though we don’t see each other very often, we deeply know each other and it’s always a good night when we hang out. Not only is Nadine a wonderfully talented author, she is also a certified sommelier and an actual native Angeleno. Those who don’t live here may not realize how rare this is (probably honestly not THAT rare but it feels that way). There are so many transplants that live here, me included. Nadine truly loves this city. And her love of it is infectious.

I met her at her home in the hills crossing Mulholland drive which felt appropriate knowing whose grave I would be visiting later. We hopped in her car and she handed me a map. A MAP! So this was already exciting. It was a map of the third place we’d be visiting so we will get to that later. She took me on a drive. In Los Angeles you drive mainly because you have to get anywhere but also because it’s so pretty. We drove around the hills, driving by Quentin Tarantino’s house as you do, stopping at the overlook with a gorgeous view of the valley.

Our first stop was breakfast at Chateau Marmont. All the years I’ve lived here I had never been. And I couldn’t wait. I’d passed it driving down Sunset boulevard a thousand times. I've seen it in countless movies and TV shows. I’d heard the stories of Keanu Reeves living here for years. There are no pictures allowed to protect their celebrity clientele. But Nadine snuck this one of the menu :) And here is the bathroom ceiling.

As we ate our matching plates of huevos rancheros, we caught up on our creative and personal lives. I asked what she loves so much about Los Angeles and she mentioned the history of it. The old Hollywood lore is so alluring. And Los Angeles unfortunately tends to tear down its history so the pockets of it you can find are really something to treasure. She paraphrased the Dorothy Parker quote that Los Angeles is a suburb in search of a city. I’d hadn’t heard that before and that’s a perfect way to describe it. There is a searching feeling in general here which can sometimes feel disorienting but also can feel energizing. After our delicious breakfast (where we saw a certain high profile comedian and his family sitting behind us), we headed down the Sunset Strip which is lined with so many classic clubs, The Comedy Store, Whiskey A Go Go, The Roxy, Viper room, The Rainbow Room. I partied here quite a bit back in the day and revisiting has not always been pleasant. But now I don’t just see those kinda gross times on this street. I appreciate the history, especially the way Nadine talks about it.

Second stop was the Greystone Mansion in Beverly Hills. I didn’t even know this place existed. Again another place we’ve all seen in movies before (she provided me another visual aid of a list of these). The bowling alley scene from There Will Be Blood, Rory’s school in Gilmore Girls and more. We walked the grounds and took in this beautiful place. It was once the largest and most expensive home in California with a tragic history and now owned by Beverly Hills.

Third stop was secretly where I was most excited about going. And this place I had been before for a movie screening they do in the summers. But it was dark and you couldn't see anything. Now would be different. And now I got to pull out the map she made for me. We pulled in the Hollywood Forever cemetery and drove through. A gorgeous day. It wasn’t crowded but it wasn’t empty. We parked in the back parking lot and ventured out with the map in hand. Now I know this may feel morbid, but this is a really special place and it’s not a dark place. Melancholy maybe, but also a real celebration of life place. You feel that here. It is the resting place for hundreds of Hollywood founders and stars. There are so many unique and incredible grave markers here.

We visited Chris Cornell with tokens of guitar picks decorating his grave. Anton Yelchin and his life size statue. Hattie McDaniel. Johnny Ramone. Dee Ramone with all the lipstick marks. Jayne Mansfield. Paul Rubens. Judy Garland. And David Lynch. Oh David Lynch. This is who I most wanted to honor. I should have brought flowers. I left him a coin. So many people have visited that the grass has worn down. “Night Blooming Jasmine” references his love for Los Angeles. He commented once that “You know, on a summer’s night, maybe more like a spring night, you could drive to certain places and if you smell that night-blooming jasmine, you can almost see Clark Gable or Gloria Swanson. The golden age of Hollywood is still living in some moods here, in the DNA of the city.”

Our final stop! Hollywood Heritage Museum. Another place I’ve passed a million times. It’s across the street from Hollywood Bowl which Nadine told me was her FIRST JOB. How freaking cool to have your first job be at the iconic Hollywood Bowl? The Hollywood Heritage Museum is a small museum dedicated to preserving the history of Hollywood. It’s “housed in the historic Lasky-DeMille Barn, the oldest surviving motion picture studio in Hollywood. This landmark is where Jesse L. Lasky and Cecil B. DeMille produced the first feature-length film in 1913, leading to the birth of Paramount Pictures.” Pretty cool place. Got to see Buster Keaton’s home theatre projector.

We wound our way back up the hills to her home. I’m so grateful for this day. It made me love Hollywood again. All of these adventures have so far. Recalibrating my love of this place. Playing tourist is fun and Nadine could be a professional tour guide if she wanted.

Nadine, how long have you lived in Los Angeles?

Born and raised here, so 40+ years.

Did you ever live somewhere else and if so why did you come back?

I moved to Maui on a whim one day. It was partly my desire to go on an adventure but also to live somewhere other than where I’d spent my entire life so far. Everyone was always from another city or state, and I was always just from “here.” So I moved and it was wonderful but after five years away, I started to crave a big city again. I wanted to go to concerts, museums, and restaurants. I wanted the energy and excitement that comes with city life. I briefly came back with the intention to try another city, but I fell in love with Los Angeles like never before and now it’s home for life.

What do you love about L.A.?

Everything happens here. You can go to the theatre or a comedy show every single night of the week. Traveling exhibits come to the museums. You can find every type of food. Plus there is so much history here as well as so much creativity. And the weather, so great!

What do you think is a misconception about L.A.?

There are so many but if I have to choose one, I’ll say the misconception that it’s a dirty city covered in smog. In reality, it’s such a beautiful place. We have the beaches and mountains and brilliant blue sky. Palm trees line the roads. The architecture is fascinating and ranges from modern to historic, including some beautiful art deco buildings. In the spring, purple jacaranda flowers can be seen everywhere. There’s also a certain way the sunlight falls on the city. It’s hard to explain until you see it. People get a not-so-great image of LA in their heads, but there really is so much beauty here.

How would you encapsulate your L.A. experience in just a couple sentences?

One day you’ll fall in love with a city you’ve known your whole life.

Brianna Brown’s L.A. a.k.a Hot Walks with Brianna and Beth